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Painting the Armies of 1815
French line infantry and British redcoats in 15mm
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People who see the armies on the table ask two questions. The first is "How long did that take?" The answer is twenty-eight years, so far. The second is "How do you paint something that small?" This page is my answer to the second. It is not the only way, or the best way. It is the way that has worked for me since 1971, with some improvements forced on me by age.

I have kept to the two armies I own most of and that met at Quatre Bras and Waterloo: the French line infantry and the British line. Facts about uniforms are for 1815. Uniforms changed constantly through the wars, and a French fusilier of Austerlitz does not look like one of Waterloo.


My Method, in General

1. Wash the figures in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush. The metal comes from the maker with a film on it that paint will not stick to. Let them dry overnight.

2. Mount them for painting on a strip of wood, eight figures to a strip, with a dab of white glue under each base. A whole battalion goes on three strips. You paint every figure's coat, then every figure's crossbelts, and so on, in a production line. It is the only way to paint 2,400 of anything.

3. Undercoat white. Younger painters in the club have gone over to black undercoat, which hides the places you miss. I have tried it and my eyes cannot find the figure. I stay with white and do what we used to call black-lining: after the colors are on, a fine line of black or very dark brown between each one, where the coat meets the belt and the belt meets the trousers. At arm's length on the table it is what makes a 15mm figure look like a soldier and not a smudge.

4. Paint from the inside out. Flesh first, then the coat, then the things that lie on top of the coat, then the things that lie on top of those. Belts are last but one. Metal is last.

5. Varnish with a satin or flat varnish. A gloss varnish protects better but makes the regiment look like a tray of candy.

Brushes: a good sable No. 0 and a No. 00, and a cheap one for the bases. Clean them every evening. Paint: I used model enamels until about 1985 and have used water-based acrylics since, mostly the inexpensive kind sold at the craft store in little squeeze bottles. They are fine.



The French Line Infantry, 1815

By 1815 the French line wore the uniform laid down by the regulations of 1812, the ones associated with the name of Bardin: a short-tailed coat, the habit-veste, with the lapels closed down to the waist. In the Hundred Days, with an army raised in a hurry, there was plenty of variety in the ranks, and that is a gift to the painter, because no one can tell you you've got it wrong.

French fusilier, in order of painting
Face and handsA flesh color with a little brown in it. These men had been marching.
CoatA dark blue, the "imperial blue." Not navy black, and not the bright blue of a child's paint box. I mix a dark blue with a touch of black.
LapelsWhite, closed over the chest to the waist.
Collar and cuffsRed, with small white flaps on the cuffs. The coat was piped in contrasting colors. At this scale, I leave the piping to the 25mm men, and I will defend that in public.
TurnbacksWhite, the short coat-tails seen from behind.
TrousersThe regulations said white. On campaign in 1815 you will find white, gray, light brown, and whatever the depot had. I mix them within a battalion.
GreatcoatA gray-beige, rolled on top of the knapsack, or worn. Many of the French marched and fought in their greatcoats in June 1815. A battalion in greatcoats is quicker to paint and entirely correct.
KnapsackHide with the hair left on, so brown with patches of white or tan. No two alike.
ShakoBlack, with a brass plate on the front (a lozenge with the eagle) and brass chinscales. The pompon on top showed the company. I paint all the fusiliers of one battalion with the same color of pompon, so that I can tell my battalions apart at a glance. That is a convenience, not a regulation.
BeltsWhite crossbelts. Black cartridge box behind.
MusketBrown wood, the barrel and bands in steel (a dark gray with a dot of silver).

The elite companies. Each battalion had a company of grenadiers and one of voltigeurs. Grenadiers: red epaulettes and a red pompon or plume. Voltigeurs: a yellow collar, green-and-yellow epaulettes and a plume to match. Both companies carried a short sword as well as the musket. On the table I put the grenadiers on the right of the battalion and the voltigeurs on the left, which is where they stood, and it makes the battalion look like a battalion.



The British Redcoats, 1815

The British infantryman of 1815 is the easiest soldier of the period to recognize and one of the more satisfying to paint, because the regiment is in the facings, and the facings are a small patch of bright color you can actually see.

British line infantryman, in order of painting
Face and handsFlesh, a little ruddy. The Peninsula veterans were burned brown.
JacketRed, but not scarlet. The private soldier's coat was a duller, brick red, and it faded. Officers and sergeants wore a brighter scarlet. I paint the men in a brick red and the officers in a pure red, and the difference shows even at this size.
FacingsCollar, cuffs and shoulder straps in the regiment's own color. See the table below.
LaceWhite loops of tape across the chest. Each regiment's lace had its own colored stripe woven into it, which you can safely ignore in 15mm. A few short white dashes across the chest will do.
TrousersGray, a blue-gray rather than a brown one.
ShakoMost of the line wore the 1812 shako with the tall false front, often called the "Belgic," with a brass plate, white cords, and a short plume: white over red for the battalion companies, white for the grenadiers, green for the light company.
WingsGrenadier and light companies wore "wings" on the shoulders, in the facing color edged in white.
Belts and packWhite crossbelts, with a brass plate where they cross on the chest. Black cartridge box. A black-painted knapsack with the gray greatcoat rolled on top.
MusketThe Brown Bess: brown wood, brass furniture, steel barrel.

Facings of some regiments at Quatre Bras
1st Foot (Royal Scots)dark blue (a royal regiment)
28th Footyellow
33rd Footred
42nd Highlandersdark blue (also royal)
44th Footyellow
79th Highlandersdark green
92nd Highlandersyellow
95th Riflesnot red at all: a dark green jacket with black facings

A red-faced regiment like the 33rd is easy: the facings are simply red on red, and you are done. My advice to beginners is to start with one.

The Highlanders. The 42nd, 79th and 92nd fought at Quatre Bras in kilts and feather bonnets, and they are the hardest and most rewarding figures in the British army. The bonnet is black, with a checked band at the bottom. The hose were checked red and white. For the tartan, do not try to paint the sett. Paint the kilt a very dark green, run a few thin lines of dark blue and black across it both ways, and stop. From three feet away, it reads as tartan, and nobody is going to get closer than three feet without being asked to roll a die.


Bases

When a stand is finished I glue the figures to cardboard, brush the base with brown paint, sprinkle fine sand into the wet paint, and when it is dry, drybrush it lighter and add a little green flock. Every stand in the club is based the same way, so that our armies look like they are standing on the same ground. Write the regiment on the bottom in pencil. In twenty years you will be glad you did.

How long does it take? A battalion of French line infantry takes me about two weeks of evenings, one hour a night, more with Barbara's crossword going on in the same room.


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Uniform questions to [email protected]. I will answer what I know and admit what I don't.
Last updated August 29, 1999