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For those who don't follow cycling, a word about the race. The Tour de
France runs for three weeks every July, more than two thousand miles around
France and its neighbors, over the Alps and the Pyrenees, and finishes in
Paris. Every day's stage is timed, and the rider with the lowest total time
wears the yellow jersey. Whoever is wearing it at the end in Paris has won.
It is, without much argument, the hardest sporting event there is.
Last year's Tour was a mess, with a drug scandal that knocked whole teams
out of the race, and this year the organizers billed it as a Tour of renewal.
Nobody, and I mean nobody, picked a cancer survivor from Texas to win it.
THE KEY DAYS
| SATURDAY, JULY 3 · THE PROLOGUE |
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The Tour opens with a short individual time trial at Le Puy du Fou, in western
France: each rider alone against the clock. Lance wins it and pulls on the
yellow jersey on the very first day. I read about it in Sunday's paper and had
to read it twice. As expected, he gives the jersey up once the flat stages
and the sprinters take over. But a lot of people had noticed.
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| SUNDAY, JULY 11 · THE METZ TIME TRIAL |
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The first long time trial, at Metz, in the east of France. Long time trials are
where the Tour is often won, and Lance wins this one outright, beating the best
time trial riders in the world, and takes the yellow jersey back. Now people are
paying attention. The question everybody asks is whether he can climb.
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| TUESDAY, JULY 13 · SESTRIERE |
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The first big day in the mountains, over the Alps into Italy and up to the ski
town of Sestriere. On the final climb, he rides away from the best climbers in
the race and wins the stage alone, in the yellow jersey. That answered the
question. The man who wasn't supposed to be able to climb, the man who'd had
chemotherapy less than three years before, was the strongest rider on the
mountain. That was the day I knew.
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| THE NEXT TWO WEEKS |
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More mountains, the Pyrenees, and day after day of other teams attacking him.
His U.S. Postal Service teammates, George Hincapie, Frankie Andreu, Tyler
Hamilton and the rest, ride at the front for him and protect him. He doesn't
just hold on: he wins the final time trial too, the day before Paris.
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| SUNDAY, JULY 25 · PARIS |
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The final stage finishes on the Champs-Élysées, with the American
flags waving along the avenue. Lance wins the Tour de France by 7 minutes and 37
seconds over Alex Zülle of Switzerland, with Fernando Escartín of Spain
third. Greg LeMond won the Tour three times, but always for European teams. Lance
is the first American to win it on an American team.
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WHERE I WAS
Cycling doesn't get much television in this country, so for most of the
three weeks I followed it the way you'd follow a war overseas: a few minutes of
highlights at night if I was lucky, and the results in the paper the next
morning, which I'd read standing at the kitchen counter before work. A fellow in
our bike club, Marvin, who has been riding since before either of us had gray
hair, would call me every evening with the day's news, and by the second week
the calls had gotten longer than the stages.
On the 25th Karen and I watched the finish. When he rode up the Champs-Élysées
in yellow, I thought about the chemotherapy ward in Indianapolis in 1988, and the
men who were there with me. I thought: this is what it was for.
The next morning I went out and rode forty miles before work, slow, with a big
grin on my face the whole way. Marvin says I looked ridiculous. He was riding next to
me, grinning too, so he's in no position to talk.
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