hi. this is my page. there isn't much on it.

i'm david. i'm 19. i live in santa cruz, california. i surf, i work at a surf shop, i'm taking english 1a at the community college. that's about it.

mornings

i'm in the water most days by six. pleasure point usually. the lane if it's big and i'm feeling brave, which is not every time. the water's cold here. you wear a 4/3 most of the year and booties in winter. nobody talks much at that hour. you just sit out there and wait. i like the waiting almost as much as the waves.

boards

a 6'1" thruster with a ding in the rail i keep meaning to fix. a 9'0" log for the small days. got the log for forty bucks from a guy who was done with it. it's yellow and it's heavy and it's the nicest thing i own.

work

afternoons i'm at the shop. wax boards, sell wetsuits, ring up people on vacation who ask if there are sharks. there are. it's fine.

my mom

she works two jobs, days at a dentist's office and nights at a grocery store. i try to have dinner ready when she gets home. it's usually spaghetti. she says thanks every time like it's the first time.

school

for english 1a we're reading cannery row by john steinbeck. it's about monterey, which you can see across the bay from the water on a clear morning. not much happens in it. everybody's kind of broke and they throw a party. it's the best book i've ever read. i didn't expect that.

the wave

my little sister cecilia is 11. she drew this. she says it's a left.

it's a left.

brandon

my best friend brandon moved to oregon in june. his dad got work up there. we paddled out together pretty much every morning since eighth grade. now i paddle out and think about what he'd say about the waves. he'd say they're mushy. they usually are.

someday

indonesia. bali, g-land, all of it. i have a coffee can in my closet with $212 in it. that's not enough. it's a start.

that's it. thanks for coming by.

[email protected]

people have been here. that's more than i thought.

last updated august 27, 1999