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ROCK CLIMBING GYM JOURNAL Priya Menon. Started January 1999. 5.7 to 5.9 so far. One day outside. Not done. the basics / the grades / gym rules / the log, jan-sept 1999 / first day outside / what's next |
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THE BASICS (what I wish someone had told me in January)
I'm 26, I work at a desk, and until this January the most athletic thing I did was carry groceries up three flights. A coworker dragged me to the climbing gym for her birthday. I got about eight feet up the easiest wall in the building, froze, came down, and signed up for the intro class the same night. I don't entirely know why. Something about being that scared and that interested at the same time. Here's what indoor climbing actually is, for anyone as clueless as I was. The gym. Tall walls (ours are about 35 feet) covered in plastic holds bolted on in routes. Each route is marked with colored tape at the start and the holds you're allowed to use are the same color. Routes get changed every few weeks so it never gets boring. Top-rope. This is how beginners climb, and how I've climbed almost all year. The rope is already hung from an anchor at the top of the wall. One end ties to your harness, it runs up through the anchor and back down to your partner, the belayer, who takes in slack as you climb. If you fall, you drop maybe a foot and hang there. It is very safe when done right and it's the "done right" part they test you on. Lead climbing. The rope starts on the ground with you and you clip it into bolts as you go up. Falls are longer. I am not lead certified yet. That's on the list. Bouldering. Short walls, no rope, thick pads on the floor. Good for strength and for problem solving; bad for my ankles, which I've decided I like. The belay test. Before the gym lets you belay anyone, you take a class (two hours, $25 at mine) and then pass a test in front of a staff member. They watch you tie into your harness with a figure-eight follow-through knot, check your partner's knot and harness, load the rope into the belay device correctly, and then belay a climber all the way up and lower them down smoothly without ever taking your brake hand off the rope. Take your brake hand off, you fail. I failed the first time. I was so busy watching my partner that I let go for about half a second to adjust my glasses. The staff guy was very nice about it and I retook it the next week and passed, and I have never adjusted my glasses on belay since. The commands. Everybody uses the same ones so there's no confusion about who's ready. Climber: "On belay?" Belayer: "Belay on." Climber: "Climbing." Belayer: "Climb on." At the top: "Take!" to get pulled tight, then "Lower!" or "Ready to lower." You say them every time, even when it's your best friend on the other end. Especially then. Shoes. Climbing shoes are tight, have sticky rubber soles, and hurt. You rent them the first few times ($3) and then when you buy your own you buy them a size smaller than you think is reasonable, and then you sit in the car in the parking lot with them on to break them in, and then they still hurt, and then one day they don't and you can stand on a hold the size of a quarter. I bought mine in April. Chalk. Gymnast's chalk, in a little bag on your harness. It dries your hands so you don't slip off the holds. It also gets on your clothes, your car seat, your face, and, once, my boss's office chair. Harness. Rent ($3) until you're sure, then buy ($45 for mine). It goes around your waist and legs, and the rope ties into it through two specific loops, and you double-check the buckle every time because the belay test people made me say "buckle doubled back" out loud so many times that I now say it in my sleep. |
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THE GRADES (the Yosemite Decimal System, roughly)
Routes are rated so you know what you're getting into. American climbers use the Yosemite Decimal System, which is why this page lives in the Yosemite neighborhood. The general idea:
Grades are subjective and every gym is a little different, and outdoor grades are almost always harder than the same number indoors, which I found out in September. But it gives you something to chase, and I like having something to chase. |
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GYM RULES (the posted ones and the unposted ones)
Posted on the wall by the front desk:
Not posted anywhere, but learned:
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THE LOG, JANUARY TO SEPTEMBER 1999
From the little notebook I keep in my chalk bag. Cleaned up a bit.
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FIRST DAY OUTSIDE (Saturday, September 11, 1999)
The gym runs an outdoor top-rope day a few times a year for members who've never climbed on real rock. $35, a van ride to a crag about two hours out, and two instructors who set up the anchors at the top so all we had to do was tie in and climb. Eight of us went. I did not sleep the night before. Things I learned in one day that I did not learn in eight months inside:
I climbed four routes: a 5.6, a 5.7, another 5.7 and a 5.8 that I fell on twice and finished. My hands were wrecked, my legs were wrecked, I had a scrape down one shin and I slept the entire van ride back. Sunday I couldn't make a fist. Monday I signed up for the next outdoor day in October. |
WHAT'S NEXT
I'll keep the log going. If you're thinking about trying this: go. Take the class. Fail the belay test if you have to and take it again. Buy the tiny shoes. It's the best thing I've done for myself in years and I was scared of it the whole time and I still am, a little, and that's fine. — Priya |
climbers who've come by since february:
[email protected] -- beta welcome, actually, on this page it's allowed
last updated: september 19, 1999 (outdoor day written up; log through september) (c) 1999 priya menon. the notebook paper background is from the geocities clip art library because my notebook actually looks like this. more: sierra peaks log / trail maintenance volunteers / the yosemite neighborhood |